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City Dog Housetraining (part 5) Litter Boxes Are Not Just For Cats

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City Dog Housetraining (Part 5): Litter Boxes Are Not Just For Cats

For small dogs, paper training and litter-box training are much easier to use as a permanent, long-term potty solution. Both of these can work very well for people who cannot take their puppy outside that often.

However, for medium and large-sized dogs, consider the sheer amount of paper, litter and mess you'll be dealing with – all while hauling it to and from your apartment. Some messes run off the papers, and the dogs track through it. Also reconsider if your dog is a stool eater, a digger or if your apartment has poor ventilation.

Getting Your Pup Used To A Litter Box

To get your dog used to the litter box and litter of your choice, use positive reinforcement. Let your pup wander over to the box or place him in the box and give him praise and treats. Do this several times a day until your pup seems comfortable with it.

Depending on the size of your dog, you can choose from a slew of canine or feline box styles: small to large, hooded; raised and open; green to blue. Fillers can be papers, absorbent pads, recycled and natural litters, and other commercial dog litters.

Your puppy probably has a preference for certain filler textures and depths. Every dog is unique so you'll have to experiment to see what he'll go on. If you're worried about litter going over the sides, purchase a hooded feline litter box and cut the roof off (be sure to sand those edges). Place a mat or layer of paper around the box to minimize the mess.

Also, try a large, plastic storage bin with a hole cut on one end or the top half of a crate – especially for larger dogs or those that lift their legs to urinate.

Clean the litter box after every use or a minimum once daily, or your dog won't use it. At least once per moth, empty out the box entirely and wash with soap and water. As with regular housetraining, teach your pup to go on the litter by supervising, making sure it's the only potty option available at first and praising for correct behavior.

Some people who have small dogs and live in high-rises will use the litter box for the dog's entire lifetime. This is certainly not a problem. However, if the dog's only toilet is his litter box, and he doesn't want to eliminate anywhere else, you'll have a difficult time traveling with him.

Don't Be Lazy, Your Pup Will The One That Suffers

A big concern with litter box usage is that puppies, particularly small breeds, don't receive enough exercise and socialization. Unfortunately, there are some people out there who use a litter box as an excuse not to take the dog out. What you end up with is a dog that never leaves the apartment, never gets fresh air, and never gets exercise – that's just not right!

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BONUS : Clicker Training 101: Basic Clicker Training Is The Best Training Tool

Animal training is all about effective communication. The more precise, consistent and accurate that communication is, the quicker the animal learns. And one of the best tools to use is a clicker.

Clickers are used to communicate to your dog, quickly and precisely, that what they did was exactly what you were looking for, and at the exact moment they did it. And it signals to the animal that they are about to be rewarded for what they did.

Clickers come in many shapes and sizes. It is basically an inexpensive toy that makes a cricket-like sound. Most clickers are small matchbox-sized plastic boxes.

How It Works

Initially, a clicker has no value to a dog, so you have to make it mean something. To give value to the clicker, you simply click and give your dog a piece of highly valued food like chicken, cheese, liver treats and so on.

Food is one of several “primary reinforcers” that dogs respond to and it's the easiest thing to use in this process. Other primary reinforcers include physical affection, play time, and water. If you click and give your dog a piece of food and repeat this ten to twenty times, the clicker now becomes associated with the food.

This process is called classical conditioning. And the clicker now becomes known as a “secondary reinforcer”. In the dog's mind, the click has actually taken on some of the quality of the primary reinforcer, in this case – the food.

(For any of you that know of Pavlov, the guy who rang a bell and linked the “ding” with food, you'll quickly understand the process.)

When your dog has made the association between the clicker and the food, you can begin to use the clicking sound for training. This is called operant conditioning.

Click Now Means “Good Boy!”

Using a clicker is essentially the same as saying “good boy” whenever he does something you want him to. If your dog puts his behind on the floor, for example, and you click the moment that happens, he learns that what he did has earned him a treat.

So now he will more readily repeat that behavior in the future. So the clicker, in essence, “captures” your dog's behavior because it quickly identifies it and the dog understands he will be rewarded.

The clicker is quicker and more precise than saying “good dog” because people have a tendency to remember to click with more consistency and precision than when using verbal praise. People say “good dog” so often throughout the day, this phrase often has less value than the special clicking sound. And quite frankly, it takes longer to say “good dog” than it does to click.
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