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A 7 Step Housetraining Guide For Your Puppy (part 1)
Puppies are cuddly, cute and adorable  and at times, extremely gross! You know what I am talking about  when your little darling suddenly presents you with a puddle or pile of urine or feces on your good carpet, it doesn't seem quite so darling then, does it?
Don't feel guilty: It's tough to love a puppy that uses your entire house as its bathroom.
But take heart, you don't have to live with such an individual. You can teach your puppy proper bathroom behavior: to do its business only at the times and only in the places that you want it to. This teaching process is called housetraining and your puppy can ace basic housetraining as long as you follow these seven simple steps.
Step One: Buy A Crate
Years ago, people didn't use crates to housetrain their puppies, and the process was a lot tougher than it is today. Crates tap into a dog's basic desire to keep its den clean. It'll do anything to avoid pooping or peeing there. That avoidance gives your pup the incentive to develop the bowel and bladder control that's essential to effective housetraining.
In addition to housetraining, your puppy will learn to see the crate as a place to relax and sleep. Right now, though, all you need to know is this: Housetraining is much easier on you and your puppy if you use a crate. Don't try to do it without one.
Here's a tip: In addition to a crate, baby gates can keep your puppy safely confined and help prevent housetraining accidents when you can't watch your puppy.
Step Two: Pick A Potty Spot
Before you can teach your dog to pee or poop in a specific area, you have to choose the right area best suited to your property. Generally, the best place for that spot is in the backyard near the house. That way, you and your pup won't have to go very far when it needs to poo. Make sure the area is easy to clean; dogs don't like using dirty potties any more than we do.
Another important advantage to using your own property is that you can better protect your puppy from deadly diseases, such as distemper and canine parvovirus. Both diseases can be transmitted through contact with infected dog's vomit or bodily waste.
Because other dogs  except those that already live with you  aren't likely to eliminate in your yard, your puppy won't come in contact with those potentially disease-transmitting agents.
BONUS : A 7-Step Housetraining Guide For Your Puppy (Part 2)
Housetraining your puppy is about to get real easy, so long as you are following these seven simple steps to success. That means that you have already purchased the right dog crate, perhaps a baby gate in the process, and have picked out the perfect potty spot (preferably in your back yard).
Step Three: Make Scents
Your puppy's sense of smell is far better than yours. The canine snout has about 220 million cells designed specifically to detect scents, while we humans have only about 5 million such cells. Adding to that incredible scent-detecting capability is the moisture in and on your puppy's nose, which lets it collect large numbers of scent molecules that together amplify what it's already smelling.
Still, another scent-detection enhancement is your puppy's olfactory center (the area of the brain that identifies scents) and nasal membrane, both of which are larger than the corresponding areas in human beings. All of those physiological differences mean that your puppy can detect lots of scents that you cannot.
So what does your puppy's super sniffing mean for your efforts to housetrain it? Quite simply, you can use the scent of a previous bathroom break to show your puppy where you want it to take its next one. The next time your puppy pees, wipe its bottom with a paper towel or soft cloth, and save it.
At the next bathroom break, take the cloth and your puppy to the outdoor potty spot, and place the cloth on the spot. In all likelihood, your puppy will sniff the cloth intently, then re-anoint it. Repeat this process a few times, and soon your puppy will do its business on the potty spot without the cloth or any other prompting from you.
Step Four: Make A Schedule
Now that you've shown your puppy where you want it to do the doo, you need to show it when you want it to. For a while, though, the timing of its trips to the outdoor potty isn't completely up to you. That's because a puppy can't hold its water  or the other stuff  for very long. In fact, puppies younger than 4 months of age may need 12 to 14 bathroom breaks each day.
The best way to keep track of all those bathroom breaks is to establish pre-determined times when you'll feed your puppy, play with it, take it out and put it in the crate for a nap. Such a schedule not only gives you some predictability during the housetraining process, but your puppy will also become housetrained more quickly. That's because if you take it out to eliminate at the same times every day, its body will become accustomed to the schedule, and it'll be conditioned to do its business when you want it to.
Housetraining your puppy is about to get real easy, so long as you are following these seven simple steps to success. That means that you have already purchased the right dog crate, perhaps a baby gate in the process, and have picked out the perfect potty spot (preferably in your back yard).
Step Three: Make Scents
Your puppy's sense of smell is far better than yours. The canine snout has about 220 million cells designed specifically to detect scents, while we humans have only about 5 million such cells. Adding to that incredible scent-detecting capability is the moisture in and on your puppy's nose, which lets it collect large numbers of scent molecules that together amplify what it's already smelling.
Still, another scent-detection enhancement is your puppy's olfactory center (the area of the brain that identifies scents) and nasal membrane, both of which are larger than the corresponding areas in human beings. All of those physiological differences mean that your puppy can detect lots of scents that you cannot.
So what does your puppy's super sniffing mean for your efforts to housetrain it? Quite simply, you can use the scent of a previous bathroom break to show your puppy where you want it to take its next one. The next time your puppy pees, wipe its bottom with a paper towel or soft cloth, and save it.
At the next bathroom break, take the cloth and your puppy to the outdoor potty spot, and place the cloth on the spot. In all likelihood, your puppy will sniff the cloth intently, then re-anoint it. Repeat this process a few times, and soon your puppy will do its business on the potty spot without the cloth or any other prompting from you.
Step Four: Make A Schedule
Now that you've shown your puppy where you want it to do the doo, you need to show it when you want it to. For a while, though, the timing of its trips to the outdoor potty isn't completely up to you. That's because a puppy can't hold its water  or the other stuff  for very long. In fact, puppies younger than 4 months of age may need 12 to 14 bathroom breaks each day.
The best way to keep track of all those bathroom breaks is to establish pre-determined times when you'll feed your puppy, play with it, take it out and put it in the crate for a nap. Such a schedule not only gives you some predictability during the housetraining process, but your puppy will also become housetrained more quickly. That's because if you take it out to eliminate at the same times every day, its body will become accustomed to the schedule, and it'll be conditioned to do its business when you want it to.
