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Showing Your Dog Training Tips Part 3

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Showing Your Dog: Training Tips Part 3

The next step is to teach your dog to submit to being checked by a complete stranger. Start with a friend who knows the dog; while you hold him in his show pose have your friend touch the dog all over beginning with his head, just as the judge would. This includes parting the dog’s lips so the bite can be seen, and picking up the feet one at a time and dropping them back into position. Ask your friend to go slowly and thoroughly and to speak softly to your dog so as not to scare him.

Practice this more often with people your dog knows and trusts, and reward him after each examination. When he calmly accepts the examination, ask someone who is a total stranger to your dog and do the same.

Attending a handling class for dogs is particularly helpful in this situation. However, if you don’t have access to one, people admiring your dog in a public place like a park will often go over him if you ask them. The idea is to get the dog used to remaining still while he’s in his show pose and strangers are examining him.

Another most important part of showing your dog is the gaiting in the ring. You will be asked to gait your dog around the ring with the rest of the class. You will also be required to engage in individual gaiting in specified patterns. There are six main gaiting patterns. You need to learn and practice them with your dog. You must spend as much time practicing gaiting as you do stacking in the show pose.

It is also important to find the gaiting speed that makes your dog look best. Some dogs extend more and look better at a fast speed, while others lose all grace and symmetry at a fast pace and should be gaited slowly. Ask other dog show competitors or breed experts how they think your dog moves best, and then have someone else move your dog for you at various speeds and evaluate the gaiting speed yourself. Movement is very important in the show ring. A properly constructed dog should move well while a poorly constructed dog cannot.

If your dog is gaiting too slowly in the ring, short tugs on the lead will usually speed him up. Never drag your dog along with a constant pull because he will only fight you. The same is true if your dog wants to move too fast. Generally, you should move your dog on a loose lead in order to show natural, fluid movement.

While gaiting in the show ring, do not crowd the exhibitor in front of you, and do not pass unless it is necessary or unless the judge signals you to do so. If the dog before you is much slower, hold back on your dog when out of the judge’s eye, creating a gap between you and the preceding exhibitor; then move out at your dog’s best pace when in the judge’s view so he can see your dog at his best.

While gaiting in the ring, try to keep one eye on your dog and the other on the judge so you can see when he is observing your dog and so you are aware if he motions to you.

Do not speak to anyone while in the ring, including the judge, unless he asks you a question. Keep your dog quiet and on his best behavior and don’t let him sniff or come in contact with the other show dogs as it may frighten them. Also, never reprimand your dog in the ring. If he misbehaves, take care of it later, but do not cause a scene in the ring, especially in front of the judges.

It is also a good idea to watch the professional dog handlers in action when you can and learn more about different techniques in showing. You can also gain advantage by watching their style and methods.
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BONUS : The Great Crate Debate: Why Your Dog Absolutely MUST Have A Crate (Part 1)

Michelle King, of Reseda, California, thought Crystal, her 6-month-old Golden Retriever, looked so cute snuggled into the pillows on her son's bed. “She was asleep, so I left her alone and took a shower,” Michelle remembers. “When I came back to the bedroom, there was stuffing scattered everywhere. Crystal had chewed up the bedding and even had a piece of fabric hanging from ear to ear.

A friend suggested that Michelle try putting her puppy into a crate when she couldn't keep an eye on her. “I resisted because I didn't want to confine Crystal, and I didn't think that she would cause any more damage. But I was wrong,” she says. “When my pup chomped off chunks of mattress one evening soon after, I bought a crate that same day. I wasn't thrilled about using it, but Crystal's crime sprees were becoming too expensive.”

At first glance, putting your puppy into the small, confined space of a crate may seem cruel, but it's actually one of the kindest things you can do for your dog. Marcus Thompson, a German Shepherd trainer and breeder from Vermont, makes the following connection between dogs and their wolf ancestors:

“Wolves and dogs are den animals that feel protected and comfortable when they're sleeping in a covered area. The den provides security and a calming effect,” Marcus says. “Besides the bed or the couch, many dogs naturally choose places to sleep in the house that closely resemble a den or crate, such as beneath a desk or dining table, behind the drapes, or in an alcove.”

Who's The Boss?

Also known as a hard-sided pet carrier, a crate is a great training aid that helps you establish who's in charge. You decide when to put your puppy in the crate and when to take it out, so your puppy learns that you're the leader. This makes learning other skills easier because your puppy knows it can trust you.

As a destruction-proof zone, a crate gives your puppy a safe place to call its own and to stay out of mischief. Young dogs have a boundless supply of energy and are naturally curious. Left unsupervised, it only takes a few minutes for them to discover the joys (and dangers) of chewing, digging or trashcan raiding.

If you're unable to keep an eye on your puppy, it's better to put it into a crate for an hour or so, than to be angry if your little darling gnaws on an antique chair leg or destroys your best pair of shoes.


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